Folding Architecture

Architects have adapted particular elements or qualities of the fold, as an interpretation of Deleuze’s theories. This idea is evident in Koolhaas’ model of Bibliotheques Jussieu in Paris. The model contains a sloped interior that works by connecting all the levels of the building; ‘...each floor wraps a bit of its structure into the floor above and the floor below’ (Quinn 2003, p.217). The levels become indistinguishable and it is impossible to define the beginning and end of each level as all the levels fold seamlessly into one another.

Voussoir Cloud

Voussoir Cloud is a site-specific installation collaborated by San Francisco based architecture and design practice IwamotoScott and, the design and engineer, Buro Happold. The structure is created by grouping together a light-weight, wedge-shaped modular element called the Voussoir. The Voussoir is formed by folding paper-thin wood-laminate along curved seams. The curvature produces a form that relies on the internal surface tension to hold its shape. The structure sets out to confuse the viewer as they question how the structure stands and holds its shape. All the individual parts work together in unity to create this curvilinear form. Just as Gilles Deleuze describes the fold as being made up of individual parts that form and morph together to create a continuous fold.

The more I explore into the fold the more intrigued I become. Although a simplistic form I truly believe ‘the fold’ provides for infinite possibilities. The act of folding is ever-changing and each fold continually creates new forms.

These moldable wooden textiles by German textile designer, Elisa Strozyk, seek to amaze me. The pattern is made up of tessellating shapes that form a flexible and moldable surface. Strozyk also explores different fabrications and asks if a hard material can become or appear fluid or soft.

The Malleable Folds of Tine De Ruysser

Deleuze’s fold is ‘a description of an activity, intended to flow smoothly and continually with no evidence of ambiguity or interruption. It is not a crease’ (Quinn 2003, p.215)

The element of malleability and pliability is evident in Tine De Ruysser’s designs. Ruysser is a Belgium designer/artist that has used an intriguing form of folding to produce flexible and transformational objects, just as Deleuze’s fold describes the ever-changing

Origamic Textural Textiles

A fold is to bend over or to double up. To fold is the act of surfaces coming together. As something is folded continuously a multiple of folds are created and the act of each fold creates many more folds beneath it. The fold multiplies and accumulates infinitely. Although a simplistic form, the fold divides the object into an infinity of smaller spaces and bends them one into the other.

I started this blog on ‘unfolding fashion’ after doing extensive research into the concept of the fold. The French philosopher Gilles Deleuze wrote a convoluted and complex book on the theory and philosophy of the fold and describes the fold as a ‘continuous discontinuity’.

Elena Salmistraro, is a designer that has experimented with the concept of folding and has truly pushed the possibilities of the art of origami. The continuous folding of paper has produced a delicate textural textile that she has designed into intricate headwear and necklaces.

Alexandra's Fabulous Folds

Alexandra Verschueren is another 2009 graduate from Antwerp. Her graduate collection revolves around the medium of paper. She has folded and cut into the fabric and has printed onto the fabric so that it resembles paper. The collection has some very graphic influences including the concept of origami and architecture that play a large role in the intricate construction of the collection.
I am slightly obsessed with linear pencil drawings, so when I came across Verschueren’s sketches, for her graduate collection, I had to include them. They have a delicate geometric/linear feel that follows the same linear effect as the garments.

Architecture meets Fashion

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The geometry seen in Irina Shaposhnikova fashion collection reminds me of a structure; a structure that has been formed around the female form. This brings me back to architecture. I have such an appeal for interesting architectural forms which has led me to look at Shaposhnikova garments from an architectural point of view.
Plasma Studio, an architectural firm based in London, was commissioned to fit out level four of the new Hotel Puerta America (in Madrid). This design savvy hotel has commissioned different architects and interior designers to fit out each level of the hotel. Some of the chosen architects include Zaha Hadid and Foster and Partners. Plasma’s level, funnily enough, resembles the crystal like forms seen throughout Irina Shaposhnikova collection.... Fashion and architecture are made for each other!!!

Irina Shaposhnikova: An Antwerpian

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Irina Shaposhnikova is a new and emerging designer from Antwerp. She has produced her graduate collection, 'Crystallographica', based on crystallised forms. The collection has a strong geometrical feel and incorporates use of line and accentuated form. The garments work with the female form by exaggerating feminine elements. They incorporate pointedly hips and exaggerated shoulders, creating a futuristic twist on the classic ‘hour-glass figure’.

The New Antwerp Batch

Irina Shaposhnikova Alexandra Verschueren

Plenty of amazing fashion designers have emerged from the Antwerp Royal Academy of fine arts. Including Dries Van Noten and Haider Ackermann. Here’s a snippet of some of my favourite designers that graduated from the college in 2009. I’m loving the strong use of geometry and experimentation with form and dimension.

Shibori

After checking out some of the three-dimensional forms created in some of Malousebatiaan’s designs, it made me think about some shibori experimentation I did. The craft of shibori incorporates simple techniques that are very effective in creating interesting forms and shapes. These intriguing shapes are formed by wrapping and binding various objects in the fabric and boiling the samples in water.

Thinking outside the cube

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So if the sleep suit (more recent blog) is not quite you... maybe you’re not really into wearing a huge cacoon of rubber or just don’t really think it’s much of a fashion statement... then check out these three-dimensional designs by Malousebastiaan. Malou Verharen and Ferdinand Sebastiaan Hartgers make up the Dutch fashion duo known as Malousesebastian. For their autumn/winter 2010 collection they showcased these wonderful sculptural designs. The garments incorporate these bizarre three-dimensional shapes that seem to invade the soft silhouette. But surprisingly a harmony is created between the intense sculptural aspect and the soft colours and fluidity of the garments.

I love sleep!!!

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Oh the design industry... it involves long hours, overtime and a constant lack of sleep. Just if I’d thought of designing a garment that also acted as a sleeping environment... ingenious!! ‘The Sleep Suit’!!! Designed by Jesse Forrest who developed and designed a transportable cocoon that you could wear. The pleats and folds of the rubber allow for a soft and comfortable sleep in any position and any location. .... It’s making me sleepy just thinking about it.

Gehry

Frank Gehry is a huge inspiration to me!!! He makes architecture appear fluid, malleable and infinite. He combines curves, folding, pleating, moulding and spontaneity into his designs. Sure, fashion holds these qualities... but architecture? The designs are amazing as you would not expect these qualities to appear in such a large monumental structure.

Welcome to ‘Unfolding Fashion & Design’.

I’m a Fashion student in my final year at UNI and producing my major design project. I’m interested in architecture and how structure can help to inform drape in fashion. There have been many connections made between architecture and fashion and the two have influenced each other in many ways. I have set up this blog to explore experimental design and design ideas that have pushed our perceptions of the design’s purpose.... wearable structures; pleated & folded buildings; a form that enfolds and shelters the body. These are all ideas of combining architecture and fashion and pushing the boundaries of design. Check it out. Enjoy. And feel free to comment.